A trekker takes a break on the way to Gorakshep in the Everest Base Camp Trail. It blends so well with the surroundings.
How I walked solo to the Everest Base Camp
“We had seen a whole mountain range, little by little, the lesser to the greater until, incredibly higher in the sky than imagination had ventured to dream, the top of Everest itself appeared.” -George Mallory
” Someday is actually a synonym for never ”
I write this seated on the third flight of the day as I head back home. I am eagerly looking forward to home food and water and at room temperature. The morning flight from Lukla is considered among one of the most dangerous flight routes. As I sat in the flight I was aware of the fact that just 10 days back one flight had crashed on this route. I sat, closed my eyes and contemplated on the beauty of the airport. At an altitude of 2840m , a short patch of inclined concrete as runway this was one of the most beautiful airports I had ever been to.
People go to the mountains for clean air , to be healed , I think it is the view that heals. Imagine a real hard climb at the end of the day when you are wishing for it to get over and then the clouds come and meet you on the trail. These small things of beauty just keep you moving.
The numerous hanging bridges that one crosses on the trail are strewn with prayer flags which make their colorful fluttering noise. You reach the middle of the bridge, hold the wire and look down the flowing water hundreds of meters below. The bridge vibrates, the cool air blows at your face and you move on. The monasteries, the villages , the cafes , the kids , the yaks, the food , the tourists everything made it a more colorful trip .
5535m , Kalapathar top , 7 am , I was at the highest point in the trail all alone. I had a dog for company and no human around for 20 minutes. I had come here to takeaway an image of the mountain in my mind, the mountain the summit of which can deliver you from the pain of ambition.
I had my adventures and misadventures but I made it. Life in mountains is amazingly beautiful and exceedingly difficult. I return back with the idea of being there yet again, somewhere higher than this time.
Number of Days: 14
Budget: 45000 INR ( Inclusive of flights from Ranchi to Delhi, Delhi to Kathmandu,Kathmandu to Lukla and return .
When: June 2017
Before we begin with the day to day itinerary, these tips will really really be useful:
- Keep one day in reserve for flights from Kathmandu to Lukla and back.I booked my tickets online with Tara Air . While returning from Lukla to Kathmandu , it is important that you report one day prior at Lukla airport and confirm that you would be boarding the flight next day.
- Carry cash as there may be no electricity at times. 2 points where I used cards on the way were at Namchee Bazaar and at Hotel Himalayan at Tengboche. In worst case you could always borrow money at Namchee and deposit your credit card and collect it while returning. Ideally 3000 Nepalese Rupee per day per person is a safe bet.
- WIFI is available at almost all the points on payment of 600 Nepalese Rupee for 200 MB.
- If like me you going solo with no porter, no guide, the first trick is to pack light. Keep raincoat and one pair of clothes to change at the end of each day of trek
- There are signposts on the way which will direct you to the EBC trail. But still keep a map and keep looking for red flags which are ever present on the EBC.
- Please keep a one liter capacity Thermos flask
- Acclimatization is the key, please read on high altitude sickness before indulging in this trek
- You have to get a TIMS card for this trek at the Nepal tourism Board office.It will cost you 600 Nepalese for Indian Nationals.On the way you have to again pay 1695 Nepalese to enter the National park area
- Accomodation will cost you 100-200 Nepalese except for Loubuche where you have to pay a fixed amount of 500 Nepalese .
- Remain hydrated
Day 1 : Delhi – Kathmandu
I had booked a hotel at the airport gate so that next morning i could be at walking distance of the airport to board a flight to Lukla. Rented a taxi and went to collect the TIMS card. It took about half an hour to get the card. Pashupati nath temple is very close to Airport and I really wanted to see it and it was worth it. No trip to Kathmandu is complete without walking in the Thame area. I spent a good half day roaming around in Thamel. If it is a clear day, the view both from Delhi to Kathmandu and Kathmandu to Lukla is breathtaking.
Day 2 : Lukla(2860m)-Phakding(2610 m)- 8 km – 3 hours
Simple easy day of trek. Too much of travel in the past few days, it was very important to call it a day early. Stayed at Snow Land Hotel. Most part of the trek is descending.
Day 3 : Phakding(2610 m)- Namchee Bazaar(3440m)- 7 hours-11km
Namchee Bazaar will be the high point of the trip, you can find everything here right from grocery,ATM,Coffe shops,Souvenir shops,Helipad,winter wear shops,snooker table etc.The trail crosses through a lot of villages, do stop at small cafes in the evening for a plateful of delicious momos. The trail also has a lot of hanging bridges and the last one before Namchee Bazaar is the biggest among all. The hike from this bridge to Namchee is all uphill and really tough. I stayed at Namaste Lodge, the room had a real nice view
Day 4: Namchee -Acclimatization Day
Spend time roaming around the market, sip a coffee at Namchee Bakery and use the free Wifi there, take a hike to Everest Hotel and back, walk to the army camp and enjoy the view from there, walk to a nearby school and enjoy football, shop, enjoy a game of snooker, sip some beer.
Day 5: Namchee(3440m)- Tengboche(3870m)- 10km-6 hours
Tengboche was one of the most beautiful places in the trek. I would recommend you to stay at the Himalayan Hotel and use your credit card here. The trail goes up and down and again the last stretch from the river bottom to Tengboche was uphill and tough. You get a view of Ama Dablam on the way. Overall a very scenic day of hiking. I always spend good time on the way , sipping a cup of tea and enjoying the scenery. Experience the Tengboche Monastery(Trivia: Destroyed 2 times: one in earthquake and once in fire)
Day 6 : Tengboche(3870m) to Dingboche (4360m)-11km – 5 hours
The trail to Dingboche is very scenic and physically less demanding.You may get your first view of Everest if you are lucky. I stayed at Moonlight Cafe. It had all rooms named after mountains. Dingboche will be the point from where you will find no vegetation and dearth of Oxygen.
Day 7: Dingboche: Acclimatization day
Roam around the village, go for a 3pm movie screening at Himalayan Cafe. You can easily trek to a point 300m high by just following the prayer flags. Spend sometime at this height and come back.There is a 360 degree view of snow capped peaks, wait for the mountains to reveal themselves.
Day 8: Dingboche(4360 m)- Lobuche(4940m) -12km- 5 hours
Easy and scenic trail. A small part from the river to the top ( memorial of people who lost their lives on the Everest ) is difficult. Enjoy the trail and reflect on the fact that climbing Everest successfully depends on a lot of factors. I stayed at Oxgen hotel and this was the costliest place in the trail.
Day 9 : Lobuche(4940m)- Gorakshep(5170m)-EBC(5364m)-Gorakshep(5170m) – 16 km – 8 hours
This is the day, I felt great and excited too. It took me about 3 hours from Lobuche to Gorakshep. I rented a place at Buddha Lodge, kept my luggage and started for the EBC. I had read so much about Khumbu glacier area, finally saw it. The trail goes up and down and can be categorized as average in difficulty.I got a small glimpse of the Everest. Finally made it to EBC, it was a great feeling, I felt overwhelmed.
Day 10: Gorakshep(5170m)-Kalapathar(5545m)-Pheriche(4320m)- 18km
You need to wake up early and start for Kalapathar,if lucky you can see a fabulous sunrise view of Everest. The trail distance is less but all steep.I know of a few people on the trail who could not climb up to Kalapathar. I made it in about 2 hours and the view was spectacular. I clicked few pictures and carried the view of Everest in my mind, someday a little more higher. The walk from Gorakshep to Pheriche is long but all downhill.Make sure you stay at the Himalayan Guest house.
Day 11: Pheriche to Pangboche- 5 hours- 14 km
Day 12: Pangboche to Namchee- 5 hours – 13km
Day 13: Namchee – Lukla- 8 hours- 19km
Day 14: Lukla-Kathmandu- Delhi- Ranchi
The Everest Base Camp Trek
Everest Base Camp Trek
” someday is actually a synonym for never ”
I write this seated on the third flight of the day as I head back home. I am eagerly looking forward to home food and water and at room temperature. The morning flight from Lukla is considered among one of the most dangerous flight routes. As I sat in the flight I was aware of the fact that just 10 days back one flight had crashed on this route. I sat, closed my eyes and contemplated on the beauty of the airport. At an altitude of 2840m , a short patch of inclined concrete as runway this was one of the most beautiful airports I had ever been to.
People go to the mountains for clean air , to be healed , I think it is the view that heals. Imagine a real hard climb at the end of the day when you are wishing for it to get over and then the clouds come and meet you on the trail. These small things of beauty just keep you moving.
The numerous hanging bridges that one crosses on the trail are strewn with prayer flags which make their colorful fluttering noise. You reach the middle of the bridge, hold the wire and look down the flowing water hundreds of metres below. The bridge vibrates, the cool air blows at your face and you move on. The monastries, the villages , the cafes , the kids , the yaks, the food , the tourists everything made it a more colorful trip .
5535m , Kalapathar top , 7 am , I was at the highest point in the trail all alone. I had a dog for company and no human around for 20 minutes. I had come here to takeaway an image of the mountain in my mind, the mountain the summit of which can deliver you from the pain of ambition.
I had my adventures and misadventures but I made it. One particular misadventure is worth mentioning when I trekked for 35 kms in a day. Life in mountains is amazingly beautiful and exceedingly difficult. I return back with the idea of being there yet again, somewhere higher than this time.
Cricket in Mountains
Was attending a talk today , saw a documentary by amit tyagi on a serious topic. someone told that ,”even if people age there is a piece of that same old childhood within us and we behave the same if brought into those situations.our batch from college formed a whatsapp grp which has all 55 year old. Intrisincally everyone behaved the same much like our old days.” It was a good learning experience overall and once again i would like to state the importance of hanging out with people of different age groups. In my various experiences i have found a talk with a old person very interesting.
This pic here is of cricket i played with kids for fun at a village named Supi in uttrakhand. I had taken an overnight bus from delhi. It was full with people going for an exam and they fooled around the entire night keeping everyone awake. The next morning i travelled around 200 kms in the valleys changing 3 vehicles and nine hours.
As usual a set of tents in a village attracts attention and we were the center of attraction for the kids. I met a guy who was a akshay kumar fan and later asked them for a game of cricket. No matter how old u get , in india if you get a chance to bat you bat because cricket is a religion here and you can’t say no ever. With a small log of wood hacked properly to hold it , i did try to attempt a few cover drives on a muddy pitch overlooking green mountains.
To talk of the documentary i would just leave you with a thought that when you are real old and helpless will it be a walk to the old home or family and do u psycologically believe that aging is just a thing of mind ?
Doing Meaningful Work
Do you get to eat 3 meals a day? -No
What is the average annual income of your family? – 19000
How many members in your family? – 8
What is the primary source of income in your family? -Farming
Why do you want to undergo this training? – I am 12th pass, unemployed and family is under abject poverty
How many times in your life have you stepped out of your village? – On an average 2-3 times
This is the general profile of our guys. Today after 3 months of intense training, a lot of effort on our part, 60 guys are all set to begin a better life , all set to earn 20k per month and probably bring some change in their homes. Working with them is a humbling as well as joyful experience at the same time. Who said they are poor, I think the love they have for their family and the hard working attitude just sets them apart. Small perks of doing meaningful work. This picture was clicked during their flag off event.
A few years back when I did my post grad from a prestigious college in India, sky was the limit. I had small stints with a few corporates but felt something was missing in my life. I had had a taste of social sector when I worked with World Bank for about a year before pursuing my MBA. I now have been working in my current organisation for over 18 months and each day has been exciting with a new challenge. What has kept me going is the fact that if you change one life, skill one member of the family the socio economic status of the whole family changes. I hope few young people could take this path; change in our country will not come from swanky offices but from working on the ground.
Tirthan Valley – A destination less traveled
“It’s always further than it looks. It’s always taller than it looks. And it’s always harder than it looks.”
Nestled in the Kullu Region of Himachal Pradesh,Tirthan Valley has managed to remain the destination less travelled. At an altitude of 1600 m and by the side of the Tirthan river, this valley will just win your heart by its pristine beauty. It is also the gateway to the Great Himalayan National Park which is spread over and area of 1171 sq km and altitude of between 1500 to 6000m. Follow one trail or the other, walk into the woods or beside the Tirthan river, or indulge in an adventure activity – the quaint valley offers ample opportunities for the offbeat travelers in its unacquainted landscapes. The GHNP is the gateway to so many treks: Mani Mahesh, Rolla, Ranghtar, Shilt Rakhundi, Marahani Ookhal, Nada Tirth, Raktisar and Lambri.
How to reach there:
Best way to reach Tirthan is by taking a Himachal Tourism bus bound to Manali from Delhi. You have to get down at Aut tunnel.From Aut Tunnel another path goes towards Banjar.You have to take a bus to Gushaini. The distance from Aut to Gushaini is about 32 km and with narrow roads, this trip takes around 1 hour. I took an 8 pm bus from ISBT Kashmiri Gate and reached Aut sharp at 6 am. This ensured that I covered most of the route in the night and had the day for exploring.
Where to Stay?
Best part about Tirthan is that all the resorts and hotels are situated by the river and depending on your budget you can pick anyone. I stayed in Bisht Niwas Homestay, I could just go down the steps and touch the river flowing about 30m from the Homestay. A list of few places to stay in the area:
- Bisht niwas homestay- 9816650262, 9418093158
- Sharda guest house- 9418263667, 8894462667
- Sachin Tirthan homestay- 9418477110,9418499569
- Trishla homestay-9418703820, 9418149155
What to do?
1) Choi waterfall
Have you ever had that experience at the end of an exceptional play or concert where you felt yourself swept by the beauty of the music, and your sense of separate self-dropped away ? Or perhaps you’ ve had the experience in nature ? Have you ever stood in a mountain top, awed by the vastness ? Or found your being hushed by the beauty of the sunset by the sea.
Nature has that capacity to present before you some really awe inspiring scenes and scenarios. That music of a gushing river by a mountain, the silence of walking in the dense forests, that soothing feeling of dipping your legs in cold water, the view of the valley from a mountain peak, the colors of the sky, a hidden waterfall, a star studded night and on and on.
Trekking to this waterfall was one such magical experience. It was an April evening when I found myself on the trail to this waterfall. I met a lot of people and shared a few laughs with the kids on the way. I took breaks at my desire and gazed at the sleepy valley with the ruddy orange glow of the sun at the horizon. And lo the last stretch was the best of all, surrounded by dense forests, the way to the waterfall was one you find in tropical places. It was an enchanting experience to be at a waterfall all by yourself. I couldn’t resist, I took an evening shower in pure wilderness.
The trail to Choi begins at village Nagini in Tirthan. It is about a 30 minute hike from the main road and directions are clearly given on the way.
2) Serloskar Lake :
We are so blessed to be born in the land of the Himalayas and I thank God for this daily. Any trek in this region is scenic and varied. I have been to so many different lakes in the Himalayas in different seasons and every time this has been a unique experience. This time I trekked to Serloskar in summer. There is a predefined trail and lot of people take this trail to the sacred temple by the Lake. I decided to take a different trail to the lake and return using the regular predefined trail. I was lucky to experience snow-capped mountains as it was predominantly a clear sky day. Serloskar Lake is located about 5 km from Jalori Pass one way. The lake has clear water which remains so despite of several leaves falling in to it.The place is better known for its temple devoted to Goddess Budhi Nagin. It is believed that the Goddess has hundred sons and acts as a guardian of the place. The walk to the lake is equally enchanting from Jalori pass, with thick cover of oak trees.
3) Great Himalayan National Park:
GHNP was awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 2014, in recognition of its outstanding significance for biodiversity conservation. The park protects over 1,000 plant species, including many medicinal herbs, 31 mammal species and 209 bird species, as well as amphibians, reptiles and insects.
Did a 18km round trek to Rolla situated inside The Great Himalayan National Park .The Tirthan river was always by my side and so was the sound of birds. There was noise just of the flowing river and of the birds , I wish cities could also get a miniscule of this noise. Saw snow-capped mountains, experienced waterfalls and met a lot of people. Among all this, there was a rest point about 2 km from the park. This place stood out, it had a 360 degree view of the valley which was complete in itself.
One has to take permit to enter the National park at the forest rest house in Sai Ropa. The permit is for 100 Indian rupees and the trail is pretty much well defined. I still took the service of a guide to trek till Rolla. There are a few villages in between which makes for good tea points. There is waterfall just before the main entrance; this mammoth of a waterfall should be your lunch point for sure.
4) Sarchi Village: Have you dreamt of a village nestled in the mountains with a view of the Himalayas? Have you dreamt of a small house perched by the valley overlooking snow-capped mountains and dancing clouds? Have you dreamt of a small tea shop in a Himalayan village and you sitting along with locals and having the evening tea? Tirthan has a lot of such villages and one can keep on exploring them one by one.
Sarchi village is 20km round trip from Village Nagini. There is a bridge on way to Gushaini,the route from Sarchi diverts from here. There are a lot of shortcuts through villages and this is the only way to go off road. It was a wonderful trek, not only did I see many villages but also was marvelled by snow peaks which appeared very close by.
Apart from trekking one can just chill in the cool environment of Tirthan and probably spend a lazy day trout fishing.
Read other Himalayan Trips here:
10 Hills stations in India beyond Shimla
Riding solo to the top of the world
Village Sarchi in Tirthan Valley- Picture of the month April
“ Earth and sky, woods and fields, lakes and rivers, the mountain and the sea, are excellent school masters, and teach us more than we can ever learn from books”- John Lubbock
There is a magical image of a place that keeps coming to me in my dreams. That image of a small village in the mountain: shrouded in clouds, a waterfall in close proximity and the rumble of gushing water in the valley. A village with few houses, a tea shop , a small pond and a temple decorated with Buddhist flags. Above all the presence of the mountains, the mighty Himalayas with snow clad tops. I went to one such dreamy village named Sarchi in Tirthan valley.
It was a cloudy afternoon and at times I had to use the umbrella. As I reached the village the rain Gods had some mercy on me. The mountains also were benevolent enough to reveal themselves to me. The trail has everything, small villages on the way, waterfalls amidst dense Cedar forests, picturesque skies, medieval temples, chirpy kids, colourful birds, dreamy water points and absolute solitude. There were wooden homes just perched at the edge of the valley with a full glimpse of the snow clad mountains. This particular house just took my breath away; I spent a good hour here before heading back just meditating on the view that the place had to offer.
For the picture of month March Click here
For the picture of month February Click here
The Mist
I started my walk in the forest and was soon greeted by flowing water. I opened my shoes and dipped my leg in the cool water and looked above. Wow! I was below a canopy of trees vs the usual concrete at home. It was just the beginning of the trek and i had already started feeling better, flowing water can uplift your spirits any day. As i walked ahead I came to open grassland, the grass had the characteristic smell of recent rains. White flowers are sporadically scattered in the meadows and there is distant mountain, the top of which is covered in clouds. I have to climb that mountain and i walk towards it feeling the surroundings, once again in unison with nature. An 11km hike is quite slow and gentle way to experience the nature. Colorful birds, distant waterfalls, vast expanse of mountains and the never ending trail. Below clouds, with clouds and above clouds, I made it to the top. The mist disappeared from eyes and also from my mind. This is the power of mountains, they have a healing power. For that the mist may break when the sun is high and this soul forget its sorrow and the rose ray of the closing day may promise a better morrow.
Thoughts on my Birthday
Yesterday I completed another trip around the sun. I celebrated it with a small 100km round trip on the bike. For the past few years this has been the ritual. Being on the bike clears my mind a lot, especially it helps me channelize my thoughts. For me birthdays are a mix of both fun and reflections. It is a day which offers you the prospect of a fresh start to achieve your goals in life and also to assess your on-going life and make necessary changes for the better. So here are some musings:
- On love and relationships: The best relationship is when you can lay next to each other and just talk about anything and everything. I am so lucky to have found the love of my life and luckier enough to have married her. These are the good days, every part of it; I wish it remains like this forever.
- On Health and Fitness: I ran a marathon in January and decided I will run the next one when I am more fit and lean. So started the phase of healthy food and regular exercise. I have already begun the journey and I am enjoying it so far.
- Meaningful Work: Few years back I quit a well-paid job in search of something more realistic. I wanted to make an impact, become a change master. I started working for a great cause. Imagine a family of 6-7 with an average annual income of 20k vs the prospect of earning 12k per month. I work for an organization which addresses this cause and our target segment is the poorest of the poor of the country. I wish to associate myself in meaningful work in future rather than making rich corporates richer.
- On meaning of life: It’s a question that mankind has long struggled to answer. We’ve built philosophies and religions around it, gone to war over it, and debated it for centuries. I feel that we need to find a meaning in what we do and it more or less drives you through. As far as the meaning of life goes, it is quiet dynamic. For me I think the current purpose of life is to inspire people.
- Skills and good practices: I want to focus on a few limited things for this year, primarily do 3 things: 1) A certification in photography 2) few certifications in Microsoft Excel 3) Driving. Apart from this I would like to continue on my journey with meditation, I did around 40 hours of meditation last year.
- Travel: Last but not the least; travel has changed me as a person. I have travelled and would like to continue to travel. After all have stories to tell not stuff to show.
You can read on a similar post written last to last year here.
Travel Story-The Monk
There is something about those faces which tells you a story. I sat for a cup of tea besides a sadhu and I knew he wanted a cup of tea too so I ordered 2 . The shopkeeper was asking for 16 bucks but he insisted on paying 10 which he always did. I always go to Vrindavan for peace , to see people like these who survive on bare minimum , for whom every meal is joy and who are free to an extent. It is here that you pass multitudes of faces, the millions of devotees at temple . Happy content faces, searching faces , desperate faces and peaceful faces all come together to bow before the almighty. India is a country of crowds which was apparent from the thousands of people on my frame while clicking pics at Taj Mahal and so is the varied thoughts and life they live. It is in journey’s like this that you understand them , you feel them and still feel that the enormity is beyond your comprehension. Incidentally it was a Dusshera day and there were coloured faces in Agra , people going for the visarjan of Durga idols. Faces colored to hide something , trying to find joy , trying to live something of their mundane lives , to celebrate something out of nothing.
Ek Raasta Hai Jindagi 